Wednesday, June 06, 2007

Heinrich St. Laurent, Burgenland 2004

Heinrich, St. Laurent from Burgenland, 2004.

This variety is often compared to Pinot Noir, and I can see why, although there are some clear differences between the two.

Sight: Dramatic, deep purple red, and surprisingly pink rim with a watery finish. Striking color, deep and dark - but remarkably natural looking. Doesn't look like over extraction.

Nose: Meaty, heady. Deep dark and ripe cherry, but not over the top. Reminds me of a Pinot Noir from Oregon I tried recently that was surprisingly concentrated and powerful. Unlike the Oregon wine, however, this one wasn't over the top, but rather balanced. Not sure what I would've made of it if tasting blind.

Taste: Surprisingly dry. Medium+ body. Very peculiar. Almost medicinal. Flavors of dried berries. No tannin. Like nothing else I've tasted. Ripe but not obviously so. Although the acidity is not obvious, the wine is not flabby. Very long finish.

Conclusion: I tasted it again after about three hours and it had mellowed out a good bit. The nose became much sweeter and jammy. Still smoky and meaty, though. The flavor changed dramatically, the wine became much more fruity on the palate. Very similar to ripe Oregon Pinot. A very interesting surprise.

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